Posted by ChuckRock on May 26, 2009

4 cylinder motor mount

There are 2 kinds of motor mount available for Fiero 4 cylinder. (I think this applies to all of them…) You can get them solid or liquid filled. The solid is a little less expensive but the liquid filled is better at isolating vibration. Of the two, I prefer the liquid filled even if it’s a bit less durable than solid. Anything that reduces engine vibration traveling to the car body is a good thing. (The liquid mount is usually the easier one to find in stock.)

How do you detect a bad liquid filled mount?

In the drawing above I’ve colored the steel body of the mount green. Notice how the rubber passes over the safety pin. The motor bracket can touch the rubber over the pin but mustn’t compress it any significant amount. If the motor bracket is resting against the metal body or the safety pin then the mount is bad and must be replaced.
Note! It is entirely possible to get a new mount that is bad! When you buy a liquid filled mount, you should not hear allot of sloshing when you shake it. If it sloshes, it’s bad. Don’t accept it! (The mount will usually have a tiny air bubble in it but it shouldn’t slosh like a half empty soda bottle.)
A sloshing mount has air in it and won’t be able to support the motor. Once installed it should pass the above inspection, if not then take is back and get another.

Changing the Mount

You need a 15mm socket and a 15mm box end or flair fitting wrench. (I prefer the flair wrench. It seems to grip better.)
Disconnect the battery.
Disconnect one end of the torque strut. (Dog Bone)
Jack the car, install a jack stand, and remove the right rear wheel. The top nuts are easier to get if the wheel is off. (Yes, I’ve tried both ways… take the wheel off.)
Remove all four nuts from the mount. These are lock nuts and will need to be turned with a wrench all the way off.
Jack the motor up. Use a block of wood between the jack and oil pan. (If you don’t use the block the oil pan could collapse.) Keep the jack over toward the transmission to it will lift straight.
Pull out the old mount and clean the motor bracket. Don’t loose the top washers that are likely buried in crud.
The new mount only fits one way.
Put the heat shield, the nuts and washers back on.

Mount care

If you have a 4 cylinder using traditional spin on oil filters… (This isn’t an issue for filter in pan motors.)
When changing the oil, stuff a rag into the engine bracket to catch oil that runs down while you change the filter. If you can keep oil off the mount then it will last longer.
Consider making a shield for the mount out of some aluminum sheet and sandwich it between the top of the mount and bracket. This will help keep oil that runs down the bracket from pooling on top of the mount. Constant soaking in oil will shorten the life of the mount. It doesn’t matter much how you make it as long as it deflects the oil that invariably spills from the filters during changing.

Transmission and V6 Motor Mounts

These are solid rubber mounts and there’s not much to them. Most of the time you can easily see damage to a bad one. Sometimes the mounts tear away from the metal parts too cleanly to be obvious. If you think a mount may be bad and you can’t see damage, try gently jacking up whatever the mount supports.
Jacking will spread open any tears in the rubber. Don’t get rough with the jack or you could tear a good mount.
When ever you have to replace a mount make sure you loosen all the others.
That way the mounts can all settle into position without loading.
Except for 86.5 and later 4 cylinders with automatic transmission, you’ll almost never see just one mount that is bad. The front mounts and the dog bone are the most likely to fail but it’s entirely possible for all of them to be bad. (The 86.5 and later 4 cylinder/AT setup only has one engine mount and one transmission mount. Read the torque strut article for more info…)
Oil soaked mounts may not be torn but are probably considerably softer than they should be. Oil and other chemicals break down the rubber over time.
Always clean off any oil that spills on them.

Polyurethane mounts

Polly mounts are generally perceived as better than OE style vulcanized rubber mounts. In some applications they probably are but for general use they simply aren’t needed and are unlikely to do anything performance wise for the car.
Depending on just what ones you buy, many OE style mounts are stronger than the ones that came with the car.
Polly can also pass more vibration to the car, especially at idle in automatic transmission cars. (This has been proven with polly dog bones. The 4 cylinder motors are the worst for this.)
Polly mounts can add some color to the engine bay. They may tolerate the heat better.
They are more resistant to oil grease and other chemicals, which shouldn’t be much of an issue. The mounts shouldn’t be getting allot of stuff on them in normal use. The main source of oil on mounts is usually a sloppy oil change or a leaking gasket. Rubber mounts usually last years in even the worst environments.

Posted under Engines

Posted by ChuckRock on April 23, 2009

There are a bunch of things about the TH125c transmission that need to be kept in mind when working on it. This is a collection of the issues asked about in the forum. It’s by no means a complete list of things. It does however cover some obscure things needed by customizers.

Shift Problems

Do the Torque Converter tests in the TC article. What feels like a shift in TH125 could really be the TC locking or unlocking. If there is a problem with the TC lock then it can feel like you’ve lost a gear. Does the problem happen with the TC lock plug disconnected? (If the TC lockup is working correctly you usually don’t notice it at all but do the test anyway.) When does the problem happen? If it is only one shift/gear then you very likely need a shop to work on it. You can try the stuff below but don’t be surprised if nothing helps. If the problem is with all gears, it could be something dumb or major. Check the easy stuff before panicking. First of all make sure that the transmission fluid is at the right level. Over or under fill will both cause shift problems. What condition is the fluid in? If it’s turned light or even clear then it’s old, likely oxidized, and you might want to try changing the fluid and filter before taking it for repairs. If it’s brown to black or smells different from new fluid then the transmission may have fried a clutch. You could try changing fluid but you should probably take it to a shop to be checked out.

The next item to check is the Throttle Valve Cable, which runs from the throttle linkage on the engine to the top of the transmission. If this cable is binding or out of adjustment you will have shift problems. Another thing that happens is the Governor or a passage inside the valve body gets blocked with a flake of dirt or sludge. This can affect one shift or the whole transmission. You can try one of the cleaning products that you add to the fluid. Some people have reported good luck with these. Depends on just what’s blocking the passage if it will work or not. If this fixes your problem then do a fluid and filter change to get the rest of the dirt out. Another possibility, although rare, is that the filter has failed or come unsealed inside the tranny. The result is that the fluid is picked up higher in the transmission. This can have the same result as low fluid.

Notes

Shift Kits: These kits WILL NOT fix a transmission with problems. Worse they could hide some problems. Be sure that your transmission is good before adding the kit.

Source of parts and manuals besides GM dealer: Transmission Exchange Co. They have loose parts, full rebuild kits, Trans-Go shift kits, TC lock delay modules and various other things. The red dye in the fluid will fade over time. It doesn’t automatically mean the fluid is bad, just old.

Throttle Valve Cable
What does the TV cable do?

The purpose of the TV cable is to tell the transmission what the actual throttle setting is at any given time. TH125c doesn’t use a modulator valve so this is the only way it can get some clue about engine load. This cable IS NOT a “kick down” cable/linkage like many people are familiar with. It works with an internal governor to control all transmission shift points. The TV cable is always synchronized to the throttle butterfly and NEVER the gas pedal position. The transmission doesn’t give a rat’s ass about the gas pedal. If it is adjusted properly, the car will shift correctly even with a severely stretched cable/linkage between the motor and pedal.

You’d think the gas pedal movement would always equal the same action at the throttle but this isn’t always true. Wear and cable stretch often mean the gas pedal movement doesn’t match the movement of the throttle butterfly. This is especially the case with the 7-8 foot long accelerator cables used in Fiero.

Adjustment

WARNING!!! DO NOT EVER step on the gas pedal to do this!!!!!

Not on Fiero or any other car.

It takes considerable effort to make the TV cable adjuster move. Do Not press the accelerator pedal to make the adjustment or you’ll likely damage the throttle cable or other parts in the system, especially in Fiero with it’s snake of a cable…. You could even snap the cable. If you try to do the TV cable adjustment by mashing the pedal it will not be right most of the time. The adjustment procedure for the TV cable is in the Haynes book and is correct for all years. Note however that the location of the adjuster moved on the DIS (87-88) 4 cylinder setups. It is now on the transmission end of the cable. Also, You turn the black pulley the cables are connected to and not the throttle wheel on the TB/TBI.

Once you make sure the TV adjuster isn’t stuck etc… Pull the slide part of the adjuster about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. Be careful how far out you pull the adjuster slide. The adjustment button is normally slightly below the edge of the shell.

The button MUST NOT be crooked or pop up higher than the shell. If it does then the slide has been pulled out too far. If you try to adjust the cable with the button messed up you’ll break something.

For 87 and later L4… Rotate the idler pulley by hand until the TBI unit reaches WOT. There is a mechanical stop on the 700 TBI at WOT. This is much easier if

you hold the TBI quarter pulley against the WOT stop then turn the idler pulley until the slack is gone from the small bit of cable between the two pulleys.

As you rotate the idler, the TV cable will ratchet into the tranny. Wherever it stops you are done. (Mine ended up with the fat sliding part about even with the adjuster hole.)

Once the cable has been adjusted, it is possible you may still need to fine-tune it a little by hand. You should not need to adjust the cable more than a couple teeth. If the transmission will not shift correctly after TV adjustment either you did it wrong or there are internal problems.

87+ L4 note:

The idler pulley is bloody hard to turn by hand to make the TV cable adjustment. If you look at the idler pulley you’ll see three holes in it. You can make a tool to fit two of the holes or you can go to a bicycle shop and see about getting a special wrench, shown left, that is used for working on the gear packs of 10 speed and mountain bikes. The ends of the bike tool fit the idler perfectly.

4T60 (440-T4) Note

Warning! These transmissions use both a TV cable and a Modulator Valve. Both items must work and be adjusted properly or the transmission will not shift correctly if at all. The modulator must connect to a Manifold Vacuum source. Proper adjustment of the 4T60 requires a pressure gauge and should be done only by qualified transmission mechanics.

Engine Conversion Note

The TV cable IS NOT optional. These transmissions WILL NOT shift right unless the cable is connected and working properly. On the 4T60 you must connect the modulator to a Manifold Vacuum source. Again, this cable IS NOT a “kick down” cable! It is used full time to control all shifting. It must move in sync with the throttle butterfly. If you connect it like a “kick down” that only moves at/near WOT then the TH125c and 4T60 transmissions will not shift right if at all.

Adjusting the cable correctly on the TH125c may require a pressure gauge, especially if you have to fabricate parts or extend the cable to connect it. You should not trust the built in adjuster to work by itself for many conversions.

Governor

The Governor Valve is part of the assembly that runs the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and is used with the TV cable to control shifting. If you’ve correctly adjusted the TV cable and still have late/no up shifts then this device may be dirty. If you attempt to repair this yourself be extremely careful! Damaging any part of the governor will screw up shifting. If you damage the springs in any way they MUST be replaced. The springs are calibrated items and the transmission will not shift right if they are out of whack. If you continue to have shifting problems after cleaning out the governor then you’ve got internal problems that will require tearing down the transmission.

Fluid & Filter changes.

There is a way to significantly reduce the mess associated with this job as well as get the maximum amount of old oil out of the transmission. I’ve used it a number of times and it works well. The transmission will stay oiled well enough to prevent damage but don’t take chances. Follow the warnings. This method will get a good amount of the oil normally held in the Torque Converter. The most oil I’ve gotten out of the Fiero using this method is 6.5-7 quarts of the 9 possible. Many people say you need to flush out the rest of the old oil. My feeling is that you only need to do that if the old fluid is burnt. If the old fluid is burnt then you likely need other major work done. Flushing is extremely wasteful for most situations.

WARNING! The following procedure can be dangerous. It should not be performed on a hot transmission. Use of proper
blocking and jack stands is a must. Do not allow transmission oil to run onto hot exhaust parts. This is not a GM approved method. There is the remote possibility you can damage the transmission. DO NOT shift the car from park during this operation! DO NOT allow the engine to run once oil flow has stopped.

DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR WHILE IT IS RUNNING!

If you are uncomfortable with this then you could suck the oil out thru the dipstick tube. That will empty the pan but won’t get near the same amount of oil out. K-Mart Wal-Mart and others sell a small pump kit for about $10 that should work nicely for this job. (It will also make coolant work much less messy.) At K-mart they are in the auto section.

1. With the car raised on jack stands and the front wheels blocked. Disconnect the bottom cooler line from the transmission.
2. Install a temporary piece of line long enough to reach a catch basin under the car. Make sure the line is aimed so oil can’t spray out of the pan. The oil will flow at a small amount of pressure. Anchor the line in the pan so it won’t jump out.
3. Set the parking brake. If the hand brake doesn’t work then someone should stay in the car and hold the pedal tight.
4. Start the car and let it idle until oil flow stops. Shut off the car as soon as oil flow stops. DO NOT SHIFT THE CAR! DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR WHILE IT IS RUNNING!
5. Let the car stand 5-10 minutes and then repeat step 3 one time.
6. Disconnect the top cooler hose and put the bottom line in a jar. Use low pressure, not more than 15-20PSI, compressed air to blow out the lines.
7. Reconnect the cooler lines to the transmission. (REPLACE the rubber lines if they are damaged or worn even slightly!)
8. Continue with the rest of the filter change procedure. Don’t forget to clean the magnet in the oil pan. (Note: Insert the filter bushing in the transmission then insert the filter neck.)
9. Take the car off the jacks.
10. When filling the transmission pour in 2-3 quarts of fresh Dexron III oil and start the car. Check the dipstick. Pour in more oil until the stick reads just below the full zone. (The oil is cold. You don’t want it to be over full when hot.)
11. Start the car and let the transmission warm up a few minutes. Put your foot on the brake and shift thru the gears. Check the fluid again. Drive it a block. Go fast enough for the car to hit third. (Don’t race!) Then recheck the fluid level one more time. Add more if needed to get the level to the middle of the full zone.

Notes

If the magnet is missing from the oil pan replace it. Any flat magnet(s) 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick will work. (Don’t use those thin “refrigerator” sheet type magnets. They aren’t very strong.) Just make sure it’s near the dimple in the pan used to locate the original magnet. That way it will be out of your way when you put the pan back on. The magnet is part of the oil filtration. It catches the iron flakes generated by the clutches.

When installing the filter put the bushing in the transmission opening THEN push the filter into the bushing. If you try it the other way it won’t go. The filter has changed over the years. Follow the directions included with the filter to alter the support clip on the older transmissions. If you forget this then the filter will obstruct the oil pan. I believe this only applies to 84-85 and maybe some 86 transmissions.

Dexron III

GM introduced Dexron III in 1995. Per GM literature Dexron III oil replaces Dexron II (and IIE) and is compatible with all GM passenger and light truck automatic transmissions built since 1949. (GM TSB 57-02-91 03-1995) It provides improvements to a number of characteristics and GM claims it requires no service. On cars that came with it, or freshly rebuilt transmissions, I could believe that but on older cars it should at least extend the service interval, especially in situations where it is likely to have some Dexron II mixed into it.

Yes, this means it is OK to add Dexron III to top off transmissions filled with Dexron II.

Dexron V? VI?

Near as I can figure there was some kind of issue with a Dexron V name. Some data and manuals for various things apparently call for Dexron V fluid. I’ve never seen it or been able to find it. At the time this document was last updated, the spec was being called Dexron V.

GM’s standard as of 2006 is Dexron VI and is listed as being backward compatible with all GM transmissions using Dexron fluids. Be warned that using this could void warranty or maybe damage other brands of vehicles. While it is rated for nearly all GM vehicles using Dexron that doesn’t automatically mean all others can use it. Check carefully.

How hot should the ATF run?

It should be running around 170-225F according to several sources. One of them
is here. (The BWD link to the nice table broke and I don’t have a copy…)

The Automatic transmission uses a heat exchanger in the radiator intake tank to cool the transmission fluid. The hotter the transmission fluid operates the shorter its life will be. At extreme temperatures the transmission itself will be damaged.

What many people fail to account for is the same heat exchanger makes sure the oil is hot enough to perform properly. With the TC locked many transmissions don’t generate enough heat to keep the oil properly hot in cool/cold weather. (This would likely be more of be an issue for long highway runs than city driving.) If you have a trans cooler installed after the radiator you could actually be shortening the life of your transmission because of this.

Transmission coolers

In general the TH125c and 4T60 should not need auxiliary cooling for most applications. However in racing and other heavy loads the stock heat exchanger may need help.

Most people don’t understand the function of the OE heat exchanger and as a result incorrectly install the aftermarket coolers. (Yes I know I’m repeating things here.)

The heat exchanger in the radiator is both a cooler and a heater. Transmission fluid must reach and maintain a certain temperature range to work properly.

The heat exchanger in the radiator makes sure that this happens even in freezing weather.

The engine coolant will often keep the transmission oil at operating temperature better than the transmission can by itself. Remember that when cruising down the highway, the TC is locked and there’s not much shifting going on. Under these conditions the transmission fluid can actually cool off too much to work without the help of the heat exchanger.

When you install an aftermarket transmission cooler, the device is installed upstream of the OE cooler. This insures that the transmission fluid will return to the transmission in the correct heat range.

If you install the aftermarket cooler downstream of the OE heat exchanger, or worse eliminate the OE heat exchanger, then the oil is likely to return to the transmission too cold to properly do it’s job. This can be almost as bad for the transmission as running too hot.

If you can’t tell which line to alter for the new cooler, disconnect one line from the OE cooler. (Top line is best in Fiero.) Bump the key for a second. If oil pumped from the line that is off then you’re new cooler will tap into that line.

Otherwise it will tap the one still on the radiator.

Posted under Transmissions

Posted by ChuckRock on April 23, 2009

The Fiero TCC
(Transmission Solenoid Lockup)

by Chuck Kichline

http://www.kichline.com/chuck/fiero/TCC.htm
7/10/2008

I found out that there wasn’t a lot of information on automatic transmissions for the Fiero on the web, and even worse, both the Haynes and Clymer manuals are weak on diagnosis and had NO information on repair.  It became very important to me when my Fiero started staying locked up, stalling the car in traffic and endangering my LIFE!  Since the commercial manuals are no help at all, I started a search on the web, and finally found the information I was looking for.  Here is what I learned..

What is the lockup solenoid?  It’s an electrically operated valve in your Fiero automatic transmission that is controlled by the car’s computer.  When the computer believes it would be effective to lock the torque converter up solid it powers the solenoid which makes the transmission lock up.  The effect is that “fourth” gear that you sometimes feel on what is really a three speed automatic transmission.  The effect is better gas mileage, as it reduces the speed of the engine by about 250 RPM when it cuts in.  Not a whole lot, but good for a couple of miles per gallon.

What can go wrong?  Like all the other electronics on these cars, they can fail.  The failure may be that the lockup doesn’t happen, or that the engine stays locked up when coming to a halt, or blowing fuses.  If the lockup doesn’t happen it can mean poor gas mileage (18-19 mpg in a V6), the engine revving faster than it should, and possibly running warm or even overheating. Blowing fuses gets you the same result, since the lockup doesn’t work. Having the lockup stick on can be very dangerous, and leave you stranded in traffic in a car that won’t go into gear – or won’t properly kick down to pass.

How can I tell if my lockup isn’t working?  Do you occasionally feel what feels like a fourth gear?  Then it’s working.  If you want to test it, take the car up to about 55 on a level road, and press lightly on the brake pedal.  It should disengage the lockup, and with a steady foot on the gas, you should see the tachometer move up by about 250 RPM just as the brake lights go on. Another hint is that when coasting down from speed, it should disengage at 45mph – it feels like the car is speeding up on coast down, because when it disengages, the car starts freewheeling.

How can I tell if it’s sticking?  I had that fault, and it feels just like you forgot to put in the clutch in a manual transmission as you pull up to a stop light. The car stalls, if you’re lucky it will unstick and when you restart the engine. If you are unlucky like me, you’ll be stuck in the slow lane of the freeway with a car that will not move!  I finally got it out of traffic by revving the engine and slamming it into gear, and got out of the way in five foot jumps.  Not a good thing.  It had done it a few times before, but had always healed itself after the car died.  The previous owner had mentioned having some transmission work done, a “shift kit” (after I bought the car) and my guess is that she had had the work done only to find out that it still had the problem.  I guess that’s a good thing – otherwise she’d still probably be driving her car! What do I do if I have a problem?  If it isn’t locking up you are working your car harder than you should, higher revs and more heat.  You ought to fix it.  If it’s locking up and staying locked up, I suggest unplugging the lockup connector – that’s the green connector on the left front of the transmission “bell housing” behind the engine.  That will make it NOT lockup ever, and puts you in the no lockup mode.  It’s probably safer than getting caught in traffic and not being able to drive home!  If the transmission is locked up, the problem is probably in the solenoid being physically stuck or plugged, so just unplugging the connector while the engine is locked up doesn’t help, but it will keep it from happening again.

I risked trying the repair.  It turned out to be relatively easy, and I bet saved me several hundred dollars.  This is what I know, maybe you can do it too?

The lockup solenoid is under the cover on the left SIDE of the transmission. First we need to remove the cover.  From the top of the car remove the carb/aircleaner tube, the bolt that holds the transmission cooler hose (first arrow) and all of the bolts that hold the side transmission cover that you can reach from here (second arrow).

Here’s the solenoid connector that I mentioned earlier.  You don’t have to unplug it now if you haven’t.  See that the other stuff is now out of the way. Now jack up the car and pull the left rear wheel.  Put the car on a jack stand.

Remove the “tar paper” skirting between the inner fender and the frame.  It’s mounted mostly with reusable plastic pop rivets, just pull out the centers and put them back together to reassemble it with later. Tuck the skirting over to the side as you can.  Here’s the side cover from the wheel well. Looking down on the valve body after removing the side cover.  There should be just a little ATF in the side cover, so be ready to catch it when you take the cover off.  Pull the cover out the top.

OK,  here’s the valve body from the side.  The two wires come from the lockup connector.  Here’s the theory – there are TWO components in line. First the lockup solenoid then a pressure switch.  When the computer turns on the circuit it should close the lockup solenoid and the transmission should lock up.  In line with the lockup solenoid there is a pressure switch that is normally open, if the computer tries to lock up the transmission but there is not enough pressure the pressure switch is open and it doesn’t lock up – a mechanical interface to the transmission.

Those are the parts that I have highlighted.  If the transmission stays locked up, the problem is most certainly the solenoid and it should be replaced.  If it doesn’t lock up it could be either the solenoid or pressure switch.  Replace them both.  If it’s shorting, it could be either solenoid, switch or wires, check them all.  You may want to replace everything anyway, since it’s already apart. These parts are NOT going to be available from an auto parts store.  You will have to go to a transmission shop or dealer to get them.  I went to a transmission shop and was treated REALLY fairly.  You’re looking for the “transmission lockup (tcc) solenoid, pressure switch, and side cover gasket”. Ready for the cost?  About $20 for the solenoid, about $10 for the switch, and about $5 for the gasket.  YOUR PERFORMANCE MAY VARY!  Take the

side cover so they know for sure what transmission you have.  They’ll probably have to order the parts so go home and clean things up. I see that The Fiero Store stocks the solenoid now;  convenient, but at twice the price.

Here’s the inside of the cover – ready for cleaning.  Don’t forget to clean the old gasket off the cover and transmission body.

Here’s the solenoid out and sitting on the frame rail.  It’s held in by ONE T30 star screw.  I’d always used just a hex wrench before on these things, but it didn’t want to come loose so I bought a 3/8″ drive set with about seven different sizes.  It cost about $15 and those star screws are all over GM cars anyway.  It came out easy. Pull it down out of the valve body.  The pressure switch is a big hex, you may have to buy an “oil sender” type socket to remove it – it unscrews.

Here’s a real bad picture of the solenoid kit I used.  You cut the wires on the old solenoid and then use the quickie splices to install it.  The positive side of the solenoid goes to the wire directly to the lockup connector (and the negative goes to the pressure switch).  I’ve been told that the OEM solenoid comes with the wiring harness and connector.

Then you just put EVERYTHING back together.

So here it is all back together again.  I can say that I fixed my automatic transmission and it was relatively EASY!  Actual work time was only four or five hours.  I suggest that you change the fluid and filter now.  About six months after I fixed my TCC the transmission started slipping, but was fixed by changing the filter and fluid again (it had been changed before I replaced the TCC).  My guess is that the random lockup had kicked a lot of clutch plate parts into the fluid and they plugged up the filter.

I’d like to thank everybody that helped me, and hope that this helps others.

“Permission to Publish”
Permission to publish in any newsletter or web site with credit.

Posted under Transmissions

Posted by ChuckRock on October 14, 2008

3800 V6 Series II

overall weight (to 392 lb).

[edit] L67 Supercharged

A 3800 Series II L67 Supercharged engine in a 1998 Buick Regal GS.

The L67 is the supercharged version of the Series II L36 and appeared in 1996, one year after the normally-aspirated version. It uses the Eaton Generation 3 M90 supercharger with a 3.8″ pulley, a different throttle body, fuel injectors, cylinder heads, and lower intake manifold than the L36 uses. Both engines share the same engine blocks, but compression is reduced from 9.4:1 in the L36 to 8.5:1 for the L67. Power is up to 240 hp (180 kW) and 280  lb·ft (380 N·m) of torque. Final drive ratios are reduced in most applications, for better fuel economy and more use of the engine’s torque in the low range. The engine is built in Flint, Michigan. The engine was certified LEV in 2001.

This engine is or was used in the following cars:

• 1996-2005 Buick Park Avenue Ultra
• 1997.5-2004 Buick Regal GS
• 1996-1999 Buick Riviera (optional 1996-97, std. 1998-99)
• 2004-2005 Chevrolet Impala SS
• 2004-2005 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
• 1995-2004 Holden Commodore (VS, VT, VX, VY)
• 1995-2004 Holden Statesman (VS, WH, WK)
• Holden Ute (VU, VY)
• 2001-2004 Holden Monaro
• 1996-1999 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight LSS (limited)
• 1996-2003 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi
• 1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP

Posted under Engine Ideas and Swaps