Repairs many common Fiero wiper problems. Erratic or non existent delay action, phantom wipes, 3 wipes per wash cycle irregularities.

Phantom wipes are caused by wear in the switch assembly in the steering column. If the wear is too great this kit may not stop all the phantom wipes. The only cure will be to replace the wiper switch which not an easy job. Considering the cost and effort required to replace the wiper switch in the column it is best to first replace the capacitors on the delay board to see if that eliminates the phantom wipe problem. In most cases it will certainly eliminate a large percentage of the phantom wipes.

There are generally only 2 delay wiper boards used on the 1985-1988 Pontiac Fiero. Board number: 22048550 and board number: 22062692/22062693. If you have a delay wiper board that is not one of these listed it may not have the required parts included. Please email me for more info if you find a board with a different number other than the two listed above. This kit contains enough parts to rebuild one or the other. Some parts will not be used. Includes a length of .032″ 60/40 solder which is preferred for circuit board repairs. A pencil soldering iron is required. A soldering gun is too hot and large for this type of soldering.

There are two major problems that affect tthe Fiero wiper / washer systems. One is the dried-up capacitors on the pulse board and your rebuild kit deals with that very effectively.

The cure for these bad wiper switches is to replace them with the wiper switch for ‘87 or ‘88 Fiero’s. That switch is mechanically and electrically compatible - it’s a drop-in replacement. They’re also less expensive than the early version switch (go figure). This will solve the problem and prevent it from returning. This is the switch this is in the steering column under the steering wheel, not the cruise/turn signal stalk.

Note: If you have 87-88 L4, you can use an ECM Scanner to test the MFL. The DIS ECM will report all the switches operation except the brake pedal switch for the dump valve. Besides checking switch condition, the scanner will tell you if anything else in the switch wiring is bad.

Multi Function Lever

The Multi Function Lever contains the switches that operate the Cruise Control system. Note that the MFL does not contain any other switches. The actual wiper, headlight beam select, and turn signal select switches are all inside or on the steering column.

The Cruise switches are pretty easy to test. Almost any Ohmmeter will work. C235, is about the easiest place to test at. This small connector is along the steering column. It’s easier to get at C235 if you drop the trim panel from under the steering column.

These tests will usually detect a dead switch in the lever but may not detect a switch with intermittent dropout! Work each test several times. The meter should always drop to the same point. Wiggle the lever while doing them as well. It may help you detect damage to the wiring.

Connect the meter across terminals A and B. Turn on the slide switch. The meter should drop to Zero. Now push the slide to Resume/Accel and release it. The meter should not move when you do that.

Now connect A and C. You should get Zero on the meter Only when you push the slide to R/A.

Finally, connect between A and D. with the slide in the On position, press the Set button. The meter should go to zero.

MFL switche, there’s not much to the thing. Unlike the HL Beam Select and the Wiper switch that are down in the column, these switches are inside the lever head. They aren’t the most rugged things on earth.

The switches are prone to both wear and dirt issues. Fortunately the same MFL is used in many GM models and are plentiful both new and used.

The MFL isn’t made so it can be repaired. A few people have managed to clean the switches when they acted up. In most cases you are just better off replacing the whole MFL. To make that easier, tie a string to C235 before you pull the wire out. Then use the string to pull the new wire down the column.
Those of you with access to an oscilloscope can use it to test the switches. You need the scope and a battery. A handy battery is to get a 9 volt “Transistor” battery and a clip from Radio Shack. The trace should jump and stay when you push the switch. If it bounces around as you hold the switch then the switch is shot. (Most volt and ohmmeters don’t have rapid enough response for this test but you can try it with them as well.)

Servo Notes

Some people have had luck cleaning the valves on the servo. It’s worth a shot. In most cases you need to replace the servo.

Vacuum Canister

Some people repair the metal one. Unless you need to do that for show reasons, just find an equivalent plastic vacuum ball. You can get them from almost any car made.

Servo Adjustment

Notice on the servo there is a plate with a bunch of holes. Use the hole that allows the servo to completely rest with a slight slack in the cable.

Dump Valve

There is a redundant dump valve in most cruise systems. This valve is mounted near the servo and is on an independent circuit operated by a switch on the brake pedal. (There are two brake switches for most cruise systems.) Don’t forget to check this valve and its wiring if the servo isn’t holding vacuum. To temporarily disable this valve, plug the large port on the servo.

You should NOT operate the car long term without this valve. The valve makes the servo dump quickly when the brake pedal is pushed. Without it servo release is greatly slowed.

1985-1988 Delay wiper board rebuild kit

Repairs many common Fiero wiper problems. Erratic or non existent delay action, phantom wipes, 3 wipes per wash cycle irregularities.

Phantom wipes are caused by wear in the switch assembly in the steering column. If the wear is too great this kit may not stop all the phantom wipes. The only cure will be to replace the wiper switch which not an easy job. Considering the cost and effort required to replace the wiper switch in the column it is best to first replace the capacitors on the delay board to see if that eliminates the phantom wipe problem. In most cases it will certainly eliminate a large percentage of the phantom wipes.

There are generally only 2 delay wiper boards used on the 1985-1988 Pontiac Fiero. Board number: 22048550 and board number: 22062692/22062693. If you have a delay wiper board that is not one of these listed it may not have the required parts included. Please email me for more info if you find a board with a different number other than the two listed above. This kit contains enough parts to rebuild one or the other. Some parts will not be used. Includes a length of .032″ 60/40 solder which is preferred for circuit board repairs. A pencil soldering iron is required. A soldering gun is too hot and large for this type of soldering.

This article covers the process of getting the Fiero gauges out of the car. In doing so I removed the entire gauge pod from the vehicle, for ease of access to prevent damaging any components.

Tools:

1. 7mm driver

2. 5mm driver

3. 10mm driver

4. Torx driver,for interior screws

Preparation:

Removing the Gauge Pod

1. Remove the switch plates and disconnect any wiring.

2. Remove the lower steering column shroud, as well as the two screws for the upper gauge shroud. The picture shows one side of the shroud, remove duplicate screws on the right side.

3. Remove the screws holding the upper gauge cover on.

4. Remove the upper screws holding the gauge pod in place. On my Formula, these were 10mm bolts (shown), on the 84 these were normal 7mm screws.

5. Remove the lower screws holding the gauge pod in place. On my Formula, these were 10mm bolts (shown), on the 84 these were normal 7mm screws.

6. Pull the gauge pod out slightly and remove the three connectors from the back, two smaller on the left and one larger on the right. Also disconnect any wire retainers and free all wires from the pod.

7. You can now pull the pod out of the car.

Accesssing the Gauges

1. Remove the 3 Torx screws holding the faceplate on.

2. Remove the two front screws securing the gauge housing.

3. Remove the two rear screws securing the gauge housing.

4. Carefully remove the gauge housing up and out the back of the pod, it will tend to catch right near the top.

5. Remove the screws holding the clear plastic faceplate and the black surround in place.

6. Lift off the clear plastic and black metal surround. The metal may seem to be secured or adhered, but is likely just caught on the plastic. Carefully pop it up.