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Adding a Power Deck Lid Release

Posted by ChuckRock on May 14, 2009
Here’s a small tip that I found out as I started upgrading the body on Terri’s new 86 Fiero Coupe. You don’t realize how much you miss a power deck lid release until you don’t have one. This is one of the easier upgrades you can do since GM takes the cheap way out and makes all of their cars with the wiring already in place, which is good for us.
Again as with most modifications you can do this several ways:
  1. Take a whole deck lid from a car with the release, which is good if you’re already changing the deck lid in an upgrade.
  2. Take the power release and latch off of a donor deck lid.
  3. Take just the power release solenoid and attach it to your deck lid.


The first choice is the best, since you get the wiring harness that’s built into the deck lid. All you have to do is bolt up the deck lid and hook up the wiring. We’ll get into the wiring issue later.

The second choice is to unbolt the whole latch assembly (2 10mm bolts) and switch it out with a power latch assembly. If you need to change the lock for some reason now is the time to do it. When the latch is removed all you have to do is remove the two Philips screws from the plate that’s behind the latch and pull out the plate, which holds in the lock cylinder. Pull the lock out through the latch side.

The last choice is to take the solenoid itself and bolt it up to your existing latch. First you’ll have to pop out a small knockout plate on your latch and then bolt up the solenoid, which is only attached with one bolt.

The wiring is the next thing. All Fieros should have a pigtail hanging out of a wiring harness below the right or left deck lid hinge. You hook this pigtail up to the harness coming out of either the left or right side of the deck lid (if it’s a power deck lid). I found that some 84’s and 85’s have a small one wire hook-up coming out of the left side and the 86’s on up seem to have a four wire plug coming out of the right side. If you don’t have a deck lid with a harness than you have to make one. The solenoids only need one wire that’s hot and the ground it gets from the latch when it contacts the body. In fact, some of the cars I’ve done with heavy spoilers or wings sometimes have needed a separate ground wired to it since it doesn’t always make contact properly. The switch is the easiest part since you just bolt up a release switch into the instrument cluster and hook up the wires, which are already there. The last thing is to find the pigtail under the dash, above your right knee. It should be a three-wire pigtail and you’ll need to plug in a relay.

Typical Decklid Release Switch

Typical Decklid Release Switch

Underdash-mounted Relay

Underdash-mounted Relay

Solenoid Mounted on the Decklid Latch

Solenoid Mounted on the Decklid Latch

On Terri’s Fiero, which we call Blackie, I actually did it two ways. First I had hooked up a non-power deck lid with a mustang spoiler. I took a solenoid I had, removed the knockout plate and bolted it to my old latch. Then I had to make a wire harness and used wiretaps to hook it into the pigtail. Next I just hooked up the switch and plugged in the relay. Because of the weight of the spoiler I had to hook up that separate ground wire I talked about. About a week later I got a knock off Fiero GT wing. I had an extra 85 GT deck lid so I bolted that up with the wing. This was a power deck lid but being an 85 it had the wire coming out of the left side, so I had to run that to the right side where my connector was. I had to swap out the locks so I could keep my key, but now I can open the deck lid with a push of a button! Keith and Terri
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Posted under Electrical

Golden Gate Fieros

Posted by ChuckRock on January 8, 2009

Golden Gate Fieros

Golden Gate Fieros is a California car club dedicated to the preservation and enjoyment of America’s mid-engine sports car – the Pontiac Fiero.

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Posted under California

Alabama Fieros

Posted by ChuckRock on January 8, 2009

Alabama Fieros

We are a bunch of nuts! Not your every-day, garden-variety nuts, but fully certified, card-carrying Fiero nuts. That’s the easiest way to describe it. The “Alabama” part isn’t entirely accurate because we have members all through the Southeast and beyond. We pickup members from other states without established clubs. The “Fiero” part isn’t a requirement for membership, either. But you do have to be nuts. Nuts for the car and nuts for the people who are nuts for the car. If this is you, then consider yourself a member of ALABAMA FIEROS.

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Posted under Alabama

mile high fieros

Posted by ChuckRock on January 7, 2009

mile high fieros

The Mile High Fiero Club. is proud to be a host for the Go and Show Fiero caravan in the summer of 2010. Gunnison Car Club Cool Cars. Cool Mountains.

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Posted under Colorado

11.25″ Brake Upgrade How To

Posted by ChuckRock on October 15, 2008

11.25″ Brake Upgrade How To

The following brake conversion uses mostly off-the-shelf parts and a few simple fabrications. This conversion applies to 1984 through 1987 Fieros, all models. They are incompatible with the changes of the 1988 model year.

The rear calipers are selected to function with the stock Fiero parking brake cable arrangement. some people mistakenly rationalize that they never use the hand brake, therefore they won’t miss it. Definitely you should retain the emergency brake function. The Fiero requires that both pull to the rear. 1980-1985 Cadillac Seville calipers met the requirements. Be careful that the calipers you get are marked with casting numbers 020 and the other with 021. They are mirror images of each other in that one is a right and the other a left. In our application, the sides are reversed. We will re-use the parking brake levers and return springs from the Fiero calipers. No modifications are required.

The master cylinder selected is for late model Chevrolet C/K pickups and Blazer. It is made by Bendix and is of the same family of master cylinders as the stock Fiero unit. To look at the two, they are identical, varying only in bore size. Our choice is 1 1/8″ bore to pump more fluid to the larger caliper bores, thus maintaining a pedal stroke equal to the original. Installation is a perfect bolt in replacement.

Walt Zettner’s design has been improved on by PFF member Koburn. In Zettner’s design, the Fiero E-brake cable comes much too close to the CV boot. This was solved by designing the calipers to be rotated 5°. this allows the E-brake cable to clear the CV boot quite nicely. Minor trimming of the brake pads, however, is necessary. Two designs sufficed, one for the front pair and one for the rear pair. The accompanying .dxf AutoCAD drawings show the simplicity. The caliper brackets are flame cut from 3/8 inch mild steel plate. Machining consisted of drilling four holes and tapping two of them.

The fronts require spacers 1.00 OD x .50 ID x .435 inches thick to align the calipers with the rotor. you’ll need 0.450 or so thick spacers with Lebaron rear rotors. The test is to be able to freely turn the rotor with the calipers installed. Misalignment will cause the pads to drag. Your actual spacer thickness may vary, but if by more than a few thousandths, look for something bent or deformed.

The Fiero front rotors must be modified. Take them to a machine shop and have the rotor disk portion “parted-off” in a lathe, leaving the edge of the hub flange about 5/8 inches thick. This gives you a beautiful little hub with no brake disk. The studs are then knocked out and replaced with longer, 55 mm studs. The extra length is needed for the added thickness of the Lebaron brake disk, which is installed over the studs.

In Zettner’s write up, it mentioned putting passes of cast iron machinable weld in the bores to make the rotors fit the hubs. This is not necessary if you use four REAR Lebaron rotors, since the pilot diameter is the same as the Fiero’s.

Some things Koburn noticed on the Zettner write up .. It calls out the need for an 12Mx1.50 tap (I assume to tap your mounting holes in the new adaptors) the caliper bolts that came with the Cadillac calipers were 12Mx1.25. He calls out 1/2″ holes for mounting to the stock location but these need to be 7/16 for a closer fit as well as 7/16″ lock washers, not 1/2″ – however the bolts that thread into the stock fiero knuckles do seem to be 7/16″ thread.

nowhere in Zettner’s write up is there a mention of any grinding to the stock knuckle – however at least on the 86 there is a tab that sits just past the stock rotor edge that has to be removed for the Lebaron rotors.

Adjust the tap drill size accordingly. The balance of the job is bolt together and plumbing. The stock rubber hoses are not suitable for a high performance brake system and they are too short. Use the stainless braided hoses referenced in the Bill of Materials.

Caution: During disassembly and re-assemble, refer to the appropriate sections of your Fiero shop manual. If you are not a “brake” person, get help from someone who is. The lives of you and your loved ones depend on the quality of the work you do during this project. Always use jack stands and an adequate floor jack when raising the car. The Fiero jack is for on-the-road emergency situations only.

Check for fit and alignment on each step of the assembly process. Check for clearance of the brake hoses. Use rubber insulated straps to secure them out of harm’s way. Turn the steering, full lock to lock, watch for clearance, and beware of “banjo-string” tension on the hoses. Likewise, check for free rotation as you assemble each part, including mounting the wheels. It is embarrassing to finish up the job only to find that your wheels won’t turn.

There is no alternative to a perfect brake bleeding job for good brakes. I recommend a small hand-operated vacuum pump called a ‘Mity-Vac”. You can get these from many auto parts stores for about $20. Start with the right rear caliper (farthest from the master cylinder) and work to the caliper closest to the master cylinder. I suggest draining all of the old fluid and using all new DOT 3 or better brake fluid. Do not re-use the bled fluid.

Perform the obvious driveway slow speed brake checks first. Do several miles of start and stop driving to allow your pads to seat in before you try your 60 mph to zero test stops.

there is a bit of debate regarding the standard Fiero proportioning valve. Zettner’s write up stated that he left it alone and “performance is perfect, with no premature locking up, front or rear” but others have removed a seal from the brake valve to allow more fluid flow to the rear wheels. Some have even installed adjustable proportioning valves. I will try to update this with better information.

SOURCES AND REFERENCES:

All of the rotors, calipers, and the master cylinder listed in the Bill of Materials following are manufactured or rebuilt by CarQuest and are available at any CarQuest store. Shop around for at least a 20% discount for your parts. Work the best deal you can on the cores and/or core charges when buying rebuilt. The core charges for the rear calipers is significant.


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Posted under Upgrades