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Fiero 4.3L-v6

Posted by ChuckRock on December 10, 2008

Fiero 4.3L-v6 by Steve

I found this during a search on the web at http://home.earthlink.net/~miatav6/id12.html. I did not copy the entire article because there was not enough about the mod for the brakes and I was just interested in the 4.3L swap.

Anyway I don’t the last name but this article is by Steve.

The engine swap, I used a partial v8Archie kit. I didn’t want the extra weight, heat, or cutting required for a v8. I bought a front motor mount “U” plate, crank flange adapter, and a block adapter for $610 from Archie. I also needed a remote oil filter system and gear reduction starter with multiple mounting positions. I made the mistake of buying a kit for a automatic instead of a manual and there are many differences. On the phone, Archie isn’t one to volunteer much information although he has been quick to correct my terminology and let me know it’s been a long time since I bought the kit. My kit required cutting the bellhousing for starter gear clearance and retapping the crank flange adapter for fine thread flywheel bolts instead of coarse thread auto flexplate bolts. Feel free to email me if you have questions.

Here is a finished and running pic except for the air cleaner which there is very little room for(my next undertaking). While it’s easier and convenient to solid mount the engine like Archie does than to use a rubber mount, it’s also a bad idea for a number of reasons. Many an old hotrodder can tell you what happens if you solid mount an engine and leave a rubber trans mount. The trouble with rubber mounting is the factory mount is too far rear ward. It’s not centered under the crank. The dogbone or torque rod would be under stress all the time. While keeping the engine in the same position, I have since moved the rubber mount as far forward as possible and added two rod ends with a short tube between them bolted at one end to the V block and the other to a piece of angle bolted to the cradle just ahead of the mount. This supports the engine while letting it move on the rubber. A torque rod is still used at the rear but it only has to deal with engine torque now, as it would with Archie’s typical v8 engine mounting.

Here you can see the reason for running a 4.3L instead of a sbc. The forward valve cover clears the hinge box nicely with no cutting. The water pump pulley also clears easily. I rolled the frame lip down for extra clearance. It about 2″ between the pulley and frame rail. I didn’t move the transmission out of the stock location or extend the trans mount adjustment slots as Archie suggests for the v8’s.

In a nut shell, to put a 4.3L in a fiero you need the following. Archie block adapter, crank adapter, and front engine mount($610). Gear reduction starter with multiple mounting positions($150). Remote oil filter mount($12), 24″ hoses($20), Canton racing products bolt on oil filter bypass with 18mm thread($60), an extra driver side manifold($20), a complete 1985-present 4.3L v6, short water pump for small block chevy(sbc), low mount alternator bracket for driver side for sbc($25), single groove pulley set for sbc with short water pump($45), a sbc right hand or straight water neck($7) and remote Moroso water filler($25) or a water neck filler($55). Various cushioned clamps(addel) to support hoses($?aircraft supply). Water pump inlet=1 3/4″. SBC water neck=1 1/2″. Fiero rocker pipes=1 1/4″.

Two s10/astrovan driver-side exhaust manifolds with 3 inches of exhaust pipe are required along with one 2 inch 180 degree mandrel bent pipe($12 from JCWhitney). A s10/astro passenger-side manifold won’t clear the speed sensor on the transmission and fullsize pickup 4.3L manifolds are different. I reused the stock exhaust after the Y pipe, adding a T for the rear manifold using half the 180. The other half was used at the rear.

A filter bypass is why the starter isn’t in the stock location, necessitating bellhousing modification. I bought 3 oil filter bypasses before I got one that would clear the mini-starter. The first one($20) on the left would have cleared but the output ports overhang the filter base area. The 4.3L has a recessed filter pad and an 18mm thread. The second one($9) fits but there isn’t enough room for elbow fittings. The last one from Cantonracingproducts.com ($55) worked perfectly. They make lots of cool stuff.

I used a remote filter for a ford filter because it was (A)$12 versus $40 for a GM thread and (B) I had it laying around. I mounted the filter vertical instead of side ways like Archie does it so I will have more capacity and it’s less messy to change. The bracket is just Home Depot 2×2 angle secured with 2 3/8’s bolts. Thats a bolt on heat shield from 2024-O I made for the alternator and around the pipe near the starter(gets very close)Theres also a aluminized, ceramic blanket around the starter left over from another project. You can almost make out the lower rod end that supports the engine near the alt heat shield described below.

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Posted under 4.3L, Engines, Upgrades

4.3L S10 to Fiero Engine Swap

Posted by ChuckRock on October 14, 2008

4.3L S10 to Fiero Engine Swap

Old Engine Removal

Sorry, I didn’t have my digital camera when I started actually tearing into the car. But never fear, I still have some pics to share of the end result.

The car was backed into the garage to start teardown. Mind you, this is an un-heated garage and I am starting the swap in mid-December in Wisconsin. Do I get a point for that? Anyways, teardown pretty much followed the Chilton manual I have…pretty much. This is how I did it, some steps may vary on your particular car and patience level.

1. Remove deck lid & side covers – makes for much easier access when changing plugs, too…

2. Remove Battery and disconnect ground straps.

3. Soak cradle bolts with PB Blaster.

4. Drain coolant into suitable drain pan. Keep away from animals.

5. Remove air cleaner.

6. Disconnect throttle cables. My cable was shot and being a bi$%h so I just cut it.

7. Remove heater hose at intake.

8. Disconnect vacuum hoses.

9. Soak cradle bolts with PB Blaster.

10. Disconnect fuel lines and pump relay.

11. Disconnect O2 sensor. Try not to smash it into the firewall when removing engine….

12. Disconnect trans cooler.

13. Disconnect engine to chassis ground strap(s). Don’t forget this stupid thing.

14. Disconnect engine wiring harness on the engine.

15. Disconnect A/C Lines. I didn’t have to discharge it because it didn’t work anyways.

16. Wheel cherry picker over and position to lift car and engine.

17. Break lug nuts loose so they can easily be removed with wheels off ground.

18. Soak cradle bolts with guess what? more PB Blaster. You’ll begin to love this stuff later.

19. Attach chain to engine block and lift car high enough to knock florescent light down.

20. Lower car, fix light, raise car, paying more attention this time.

21. Insert jack stands under jacking points on rear of car. Wheel wells must be at least 45″ high.

22. Lower car carefully on jack stands, be sure they are stable.

23. Remove wheels and calipers, I took my brakes off entirely.

24. My park brake cable was rusted solid, so I had to cut it off.

25. Remove strut bolts.

26. Loosen front cradle bolts, but don’t remove yet.

27. Raise cherry picker just enough to support engine.

28. Remove rear cradle bolts. I got super lucky and mine didn’t spin. :D

29. Remove bolts from front mounts, and lower cradle assembly onto heavy-duty creeper.

30. Wheel engine out of right hand wheel well.

31. Miller time.

Air tools are very very handy for the cradle bolts, especially if your car is having its engine yanked out for the first time in 23 years. Above all, be smart and DO NOT work under a car supported by only the cherry picker or jack. If the Fiero falls, you WILL be crushed, there isn’t enough ground clearance to get lucky.


Engine Bay Cleaning

First of all, every Fiero owner-turned-mechanic is obliged by unwritten law to provide the “standing in the engine bay” picture upon successful removal of the engine. Here is my compliance:

Ok, time to get serious. One of the problems I had with the car was a badly rotted battery tray. Most old Fieros are going to have this problem. I had a bungee holding the battery down on the tray, which worked fine for a while. In hindsight though, it was pretty stupid since the battery sat about 2″ away from the spinning water pump pulley and belt.

So one hard corner later, guess what? The strap gave out, the battery slid into the pulley and sprayed energized hydrochloric acid all over my car’s engine compartment. nice! So needless to say, I later cleaned it out, sprayed a little paint over the bare metal to attempt to stop the rusting, and tacked in a spare battery tray out of an old Chevy truck my brother had lying around. That worked great and I was able to bolt the battery in place. But I still had a rusty mess in the engine bay.

Fast forward to today. I jumped in the engine bay and started pulling down the nasty old insulation to get at the metal.

With the old firewall insulation out of the way, I could start cleaning the engine bay out for the 4.3L to go in. What good is a swap if the engine bay looks like trash? I ground down the spot welds and removed all the old rusty remnants of the factory battery box.

I then proceeded to scotch-brite and paint the engine bay. I ground some of the old brackets off the firewall since they will no longer be needed.

That pretty much concludes the engine bay cleaning portion of the build.


Why The 4.3L V6?

I seem to get asked that question alot, so here I will go into length on the research I did regarding this engine and my own experiences.

The biggest question I hear on PFF is, “why a 4.3 when you have to do the same work to install a V8? why not just go with a SBC and get the extra 2 cylinders?” Well, here’s why. The 4.3L is lighter than the 350 Chevy, and it fits in the Fiero engine bay much nicer without having to run a goofy water pump setup. The TBI wiring is a piece of cake, and personally, I want to have some extra room in the engine bay for future forced induction possibilities. Yes, I could get more power per $ with a SBC, but again, these are MY reasons, if you don’t agree, then put something else in your car.

You can compare the dimensions of the SBC and the 4.3L V6 below:

I originally planned on installing a 4.9L Cadillac engine, as the power was phenomenal off low end and it bolted right up to the fiero trans. However, the wiring on the ‘84 cars is complicated because of the issues with the C500 connector’s location, as well as being confusing overall splicing the two harnesses together if you don’t have experience with these engines.

I used to own a 1991 K1500 Chevy truck with a 4.3L engine in it. That truck was amazing, it was a full-size truck, long bed 4×4, and that little V6 with 300,000+ miles could still light the tires. Torque up the wazoo! So having plenty of experience working on that 4.3L, as well as having done a swap on that truck and dealing with the wiring of the ECM, I knew alot about how the engine would wire to the Fiero: piece of cake. You can run the 4.3L on an engine stand, just plug the harness into the ECM and give it +12v.

A brief comparison of the two engines, in their respective vehicles:

————————-

1995 GMC K1500 (year I am getting my 4.3 from)

- 4,300 cc 4.3L V6

- 4″ bore, 3.48″ stroke, 9.1 compression ratio

- Overhead valve and two valves per cylinder

- Unleaded fuel

- Fuel economy Mileage (City / Hwy) 14/19

- Throttle body injection fuel system

- Curb Weight 4517 Lbs

- Power: 160 HP @ 4,000 rpm (CPI/Vortec Heads: 190HP @ 4,400 RPM)

235 ftlb @ 2,400 rpm (CPI/Vortec Heads: 250FtLb @ 2,800 RPM)

Pro: shares many perf parts with SBC (heads, cams, intakes, turbo syclone/typhoon parts)

Con: requires adapter plate and flywheel mods

1995 Cadillac Deville

- 4,893 cc 4.9L V8

- 92 mm bore, 92 mm stroke, 9.5 compression ratio

- Overhead valve, two valves per cylinder

- Premium unleaded fuel

- Curb Weight 3756 Lbs

- Fuel economy Mileage (City / Hwy) 16/26

- Multi-point injection fuel system (PFI)

- Power: 200 HP @ 4,100 rpm

275 ftlb @ 3,000 rpm

Pro: bolts right up to fiero trans, or 4T60/E

Con: very few performance hop ups besides reground cam & porting

————————-

The ‘95 Silverado (K1500) has a curb weight of 4,517 lbs, nearly twice that of the Fiero’s 2790Lb. A common rule of thumb is that every ten pounds of weight reduction is like adding 1 additional horsepower, so by that rule the Fiero will scoot as if it had an extra 173HP along with the existing 160, and anyone knows a Fiero with 333HP is going to be pretty damn quick. But enough with the shade tree math, its just a guesstimate. Obviously the same math applied to the 4.9L results in a Fiero equivalent of a 97hp boost on top of the 4.9L’s 200hp, which has the little 4.3L ahead by 36hp. Either engine will provide a nice quick Fiero!

Fuel economy is hard to figure, but seeing as that the engine is only pushing about half the weight of the donor vehicle, I am expecting something like 20/30. When I get the swap done, tuned and road tested, I’ll post my actual MPG.

I know a few TBI mods I did on the old truck I had, as well as the available cams, intakes and Vortec heads that will really wake up this little 4.3L. The TBI engines get a bad rap because of the crappy flowing pre-Vortec heads. Hot Rod magazine did a buildup of a 4.3L with ported non-vortec heads and only squeaked 300HP out of it. (they later did a 500HP supercharger on that same engine, but that’s a different story…maybe stage 5? hehehe…) I drive in the low end of the powerband, using the torque. I am a stoplight drag, 0-60 kind of Fiero Enthusiast. My engines rarely see over 4500RPM, so these torkie engines are my ideal platform.

I plan on adding 4 bolt mains to the 4.3L when I tear it down to install the cam and fresh bearings in the lower end. When my old 4.3L in the K1500 started to go, it was a bad rod bearing, so I will be pulling the engine apart to install high-quality Clevite bearings, and have the 4-bolt caps installed and the block line-honed at the same time. Seeing as that some form of forced induction may or may not be in the future, I like to have enough beef in the low end to do it.

There are FAR more performance parts available for the 4.3L than there will ever be for the 4.9L Caddy – partially because the 4.3L is 3/4 of it’s big brother 350 SBC, partially because of the 4.3L’s brief stint in the Busch Series cars. GM Performance Parts makes some nice 18° heads, and I think I recall Brodix making something as well.

So to summarize, for me and my purposes with the car, this engine is the ideal engine. Your opinions may differ, but don’t flame me saying I should just go SBC…I explained why I’m not, just read.

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Posted under 4.3L, Engines

4.3L GM 90 Degree V6 Info

Posted by ChuckRock on October 14, 2008

4.3L GM 90 Degree V6 Info

Rebuilding the New Chevy 262, Doug Anderson, Automotive Rebuilder, April 2000

Thanks to all of those who have contributed information for this article, including the people at GM Powertrain – Lansing Engine.

Back in the late 1970s when everyone was worried about the “gas crunch,” Chevy needed some smaller engines in a hurry, so it created a new family of junior-sized V6s by chopping two cylinders off its existing V8s. This enabled GM to shorten the development process dramatically because it was able to adapt a proven design. But it also allowed it to share a lot of the existing tooling from the V8 production lines so the engines could be on the road sooner.

The original 200 V6 that came out in 1978 was based on the 262 V8, and the 229 V6 that came out in ’80 that was based on the 305. By 1985, both were replaced by the 262 V6 that was based on the 350. It was originally installed in both cars and trucks; since ’87 it has been used primarily as a truck engine. It also has been updated several times to make it one of the best in the industry. The engine combines performance and economy in a reliable package for most of GM’s pickups, vans and sport utility vehicles.

Although the basic architecture has remained the same, GM has made a lot of changes to the 262 as it has continually upgraded and improved the original design. In the process, it has changed the block to accommodate a one-piece rear seal, added a roller cam and a balance shaft, modified the crank and rods, upgraded the pistons and revised the heads for better performance and emissions.

There are some subtle differences between the engines built in the two different plants, too. For example, the cranks and rods used in a Tonawanda engine are not the same as the ones used in a Romulus engine. There can be problems if they are intermixed. So, let’s take a look at how it all began in 1985 and see how the 262 has evolved over the past 13 years, remembering that most of these changes were made to improve power; reduce emissions; increase mileage; and reduce noise, vibration and harshness (NVH).

BLOCKS

1985: The original block in ’85 was a 14071177 casting. It had a two-piece rear seal, a flat tappet cam and a fuel pump hole because all of the trucks still had carburetors. Just for the record, there were some ’86 blocks shipped with pans for ’85 service replacements, so it is possible for a customer to have an ’85 car or truck with a one-piece rear seal.

1986: In 1986, the block (c/n 14088553) was modified to accommodate the new one-piece rear main seal. The fuel pump hole was still open, even though it wasn’t always needed, because all of the cars and some of the trucks came with throttle body injection.

 

1987- ’94 WITHOUT BALANCE SHAFT: In 1987, a roller lifter cam was installed, so the block was changed again. Two bolt bosses were added in the middle of the valley for the lifter retainer that kept the rollers properly located on the cam and perpendicular to it. This same basic block was used through ’91 for everything, and in ’92 through ’94 for all of the engines without balance shafts except for one small difference – some of the blocks came with four bolt holes for the tunnel style retainer beginning in ’92. There were several different castings used, including the 10105867, 10172756, 14099073, 14093683 and 10066011 with the two-bolt retainer, and the 10172756, 14099073 and 10066061 blocks with the four-bolt retainer.

1992 WITH BALANCE SHAFT: The L35 balance shaft engine was introduced in ’92, so the block was modified to make room for it above the camshaft. The lifter retainer was changed to the tunnel design because of the balance shaft; it had two bolts on each side instead of the two in the middle.

There were two versions of the balance shaft blocks in ’92. The “first design” block had a needle bearing on the back of the balance shaft that was lubricated by the oil mist from the valley. The “second design” had a sleeve bearing that was pressure fed through an additional drilled passage in the back of the block.

All of the 1992 “first design” (c/n 10105903) and “second design” (c/n 10224834) blocks were missing the two bolt bosses, one on each side, that were used with the reinforcing struts for the automatic transmission on some of the ’93 and later applications, so they can only be used in ’92. Be sure to double-check the 10224834 “second design” blocks, though, because some of them came with the strut bosses in the later years so they can be used for the ’93s and ’94s.

1993-’94 WITH BALANCE SHAFT: Things got more confusing with the balance shaft blocks in ’93-’94. All of these engines have to have the two extra bolt holes for the strut bosses and 10 bolt holes for the tin front cover. See photo. There are five castings that may or may not be right:

•All of the 10224534 and 10224535 blocks have the two strut bosses and 10 holes for the front cover, so they will fit everything in ’93 and ’94;

•The 10227196 castings have the strut bosses, but they came with either six or 10 holes;

•The 10224834 blocks have 10 bolt holes, but they came with or without the strut bosses;

•The 10235359 blocks were the most confusing because they came with or without the two strut bosses and with either six or 10 holes for the front cover!

Consequently, all of these castings must be checked and sorted by both casting number and features in order to be sure that they will work in everything in ’93 and ’94.

1995 WITH BALANCE SHAFT: 1995 isn’t a whole lot better. All of the ’95 engines had a balance shaft and the strut bosses, but the flange around the timing gear was changed to accommodate the new plastic front cover. The overall shape stayed the same, but the flange was noticeably wider with big bulges around six of the bolt holes. See photo.

There was a mid-year change that can cause problems, too. The early engines used a “first design” tin front cover with 10 bolt holes. The later ones had the “second design” plastic cover that had only six bolts, so the flange can have either six or 10 holes drilled in it. See photo. That means that the tin cover won’t work on a block that was drilled for a plastic cover, so the blocks aren’t always interchangeable.

Things can get confusing in ’95, because the 10227196 and 10235359 castings that were used in ’95 came with the narrow flange in ’94 and were converted to the wide flange in ’95. All of the 10227196 castings had the strut bosses, but some of the earlier 10235359 castings didn’t.

You can use either one of these blocks in ’95 as long as it has the strut bosses and the wide flange with either six or 10 holes drilled for the front cover. But, you must be sure that the corresponding first or second design front cover is installed on the block.

Given the possible confusion over which cover the customer has and which block he really needs, it’s probably better to make sure all the blocks have 10 bolt holes so they will work with either front cover. Do not use an earlier block with the narrow flange with a plastic front cover under any circumstances because it will leak oil.

1996-’98: The block was changed again in 1996. Structural reinforcing ribs were added on both sides of the timing cover and both sides of the block were contoured to follow the shape of the cylinders more closely. See photo. This one is a 14099090 casting. This same block is used up through 1998.

MORE ABOUT BLOCKS

There is one other subtle difference in the blocks. The cam bearing sets are different, depending on whether the block was made in Romulus or Tonawanda. The Tonawanda blocks use two larger diameter cam bearings, one in front and one in back, instead of only one large one in the front. Both bearing sets are available in the aftermarket.

There are three characteristics of each block which will tell you where it was manufactured:

•If it’s a Tonwanda engine, it will have a “T” stamped on the machined surface on the block just in front of the right cylinder head. The engine ID will be number stamped on the pad, and the chamfer on the cylinders will be quite shallow;

•If it’s a Romulus engine, it will have an “R” stamped on the machined surface on the block. The ID number will be made up of a series of dots, and the cylinders will have a deep chamfer on them.

Some of the blocks are drilled for a knock sensor and some aren’t. It’s almost impossible to know which applications came with and without the sensor hole, so most rebuilders drill and tap every block so the hole is there when it’s needed.

LIFTER RETAINERS

The roller cam motors have used three different lifter retainers. All of the ’87 through ’91 non-balancer blocks and some of the ’92s used a flat retainer (p/n 10046165) with two bolt holes in the middle. As of ’92, all of the balancer motors and some of the non-balancer motors came with the tunnel-shaped retainer (p/n 10105916) with four bolt holes, two on the outer edge on each side.

Starting in ’94, Chevy used two plastic retainers (p/n 12551431) that are bolt-in replacements for the tunnel-shaped version. There are some later intakes that will hit on the reinforcing ribs on the tunnel-shaped retainer, so it’s best to use the plastic retainers in all of the blocks that have the four bolt holes.

FRONT COVERS

There have been three front covers used on the 262. The first one came on the ’85 to ’94 non-balancer engines. It’s the same one that was used on the small block Chevy. The second one was a tall, metal cover with 10 bolt holes that was used from ’92 through the ’95 “first design” balancer motors. See photo.

The latest version is a unitized plastic cover that is held on with only six bolts. It came out mid-year in ’95 and was installed on the “second design” engines that had the wide flange with only six bolt holes drilled in it. The plastic cover fits on the earlier balance shaft blocks, but it shouldn’t be used on them because it leaks around the bolt holes. It comes with or without a large hole drilled in the bottom corner for the crank position sensor that was installed on the engines that came with OBD II.

CRANKS

Chevy has used several different cranks in the 262. They came with one- or two-piece rear seals and in both light and heavy versions that were specific to each engine plant. Here’s an overview:

1985: The 1174N casting came with a two-piece rear seal and a flange in the back. See photo.

1986-’87: The 14088640 and 10105865 Tonawanda castings with a one-piece seal were both used only for heavy applications during these years. See photo.

1988-’98: The Tonawanda cranks were all 10105865 castings that came in both light and heavy versions.

1988-’98: The Romulus cranks were all 10055480 castings that came in light or heavy versions.

All of the engines with the one-piece seal were externally balanced with specific flywheels and dampers, but the cranks were also balanced according to the weight of the pistons and rods that were installed in the engine; it’s important to use the right combination of parts. Unfortunately, there’s no sure way to tell a light crank from a heavy one short of knowing where it came from and marking it at teardown or spinning it on a balancer. There are a couple of clues that can help, though:

•All of the 14088640 castings are heavy cranks that can be used in either the ’87 to ’94 non-balancer engines or in the ’93 to ’95 VIN “Z” balance shaft motors with the heavy pistons.

•If a 10105865 Tonawanda casting came without a hole in the first rod pin, it’s definitely a heavy crank. If there’s a hole in the first rod pin, it’s probably a lightweight crank. However, there were a few early 10109865 cranks that had the hole drilled in the rod pin to correct the production process, so having the hole drilled doesn’t always guarantee a lightweight crank.

•The 10055480 Romulus crank came both ways, too. If it has a hole in the first rod pin, it’s the lightweight version, and if it doesn’t, it’s always a heavy crank.

The heavy cranks were used in all of the engines without a balance shaft and in all the VIN “Z” balance shaft motors with the heavy pistons, including the ’95 “second design” versions. The lightweight cranks were used with the lightweight pistons in the ’92-’98 VIN “W,” the ’95 VIN “Z,” “first design” engines, and in the ’96-’98 VIN “X” engines. Using the right crank in the right engine will help prevent balance problems out in the field.

However, you should also be aware that all of these engines are externally balanced with various combinations of flywheels/flexplates and dampers for balance, and that they are “trimmed” at the factory after the hot-run test by pounding balance weights into the holes that are already drilled in the damper. So, if you build them right and still have a shaker, the customer will have to add or subtract weight from the damper and/or flywheel/flexplate in order to get it right.

There is one other subtle difference in the cranks, too. Any of the engines that were installed in ’96 or later and all of the ’95 “S” and “T” trucks with OBD II, including all of the Olds Bravadas, any Blazer with California emissions, and about 10% of the Blazers with federal emissions, had a reluctor wheel installed in front of the crank gear for a crank position sensor that was a part of OBD II. The raised, machined area on the snout is about .100″ longer on these cranks than it was on the earlier ones so the reluctor wheel has a slight press fit. Be sure to sort out the 10105865 and 10055480 cranks with this longer, machined step and save them for the engines that have the crank position sensor.

RODS

There are four different rods in two different weights that come from two different engine plants, so there’s plenty of room for confusion, but it all works out if you follow these two rules:

Rule 1: Keep similar rods in sets by both appearance and weight;

Rule 2: Use only Romulus rods with Romulus cranks.

Then, the question is, how do you tell them apart so you can follow the rules? Start by sorting them by engine plant based on the shape of the balance pad on the big end. If the rod has a cast pad that’s only machined on the face, it’s a Tonawanda rod. These rods don’t have a forging number and may or may not have a dot on the shank. See photo.

If the weight pad on the big end is long and narrow and has been machined on all five surfaces including the sides, the ends and the face, it’s a Romulus rod. All of these rods will have an 818 or 045 forging number on the shank so they’re easy to identify.

After you have separated the rods by source, sort them by weight and put them in sets. The lighter ones will weigh around 662 grams, and the heavier ones should weigh about 675 grams.

The light and heavy rods can be interchanged in engines in sets, but it’s best to use the Romulus rods only on Romulus cranks because you may end up with a ticking noise if they are used with a Tonawanda crank. The Romulus rods have a wider face adjacent to the parting line that can hit on the side of the split pin rod journal, so the Romulus cranks are machined to provide additional clearance for the rods.

The Tonawanda cranks aren’t relieved in this area, so there can be light interference and a noise problem. The Tonawanda rods have the narrower face at the parting line so they can be used with either crank.

PISTONS

There have been five different pistons used in the 262 along with two versions of the lightweight piston.

1) The original, heavy piston used in the 262 was the same as the one that was used in the 350 V8 except that the pin boss was opened up slightly for the offset rod. It weighed about 745 grams with the pin and had a 9.1:1 compression ratio. It was used in all of the light duty engines without the balance shaft from ’85 through ’94 and in the VIN “Z” balance shaft motors from ’93 through part of ’95.

The parts catalog identifies the ’95 VIN “Z” engines with this heavy piston as the “second design” version even though they were built during the first part of the year. They will have one of the following engine codes: ALH, ALA, ALB, ALC, ALD, ALF, ALH, ALJ, ALL, ALP, ALS, AJS, AJT, AJW and AJU.

2) The lightweight piston weighs about 675 grams with a pin. It was used in all the high output, balance shaft engines (VIN “W”) from ’92 through ’98 and in all the VIN “X” engines from ’96 through ’98. It was also used in the “first design” VIN “Z” engines that were built during the latter part of model year ’95, including those with the following engine codes: AAB, AAC, AAF, AAJ, AAK, AAL, AAP, AAS, AAW, AFC, AFD, AHC and AHD.

The lightweight piston was originally a Mahle, full-round design (p/n 2753), but GM switched to its own “RPM” (Revised Permanent Mold) design with a short slipper skirt and a narrower pin boss in ’95. Both of these pistons have very short skirts, so the clearance must be right or they tend to make noise at startup.

3) There was a heavy duty engine offered for trucks and vans with over 8500 GVW from ’89 through ’95. It used a heavy duty, Zollner piston that had an 8.3:1 compression ratio and weighed the same as the regular heavy piston.

4) There was also a high output, VIN “B” (LU2) engine offered in the Astro van in ’90 and ’91. It used a special, hypereutectic, strutless piston that is available from GM under p/n 10181389 in standard, or from Zollner as a H-8269-D. It weighs about 745 grams, just like the rest of the heavy pistons.

5) There was one more piston used in the 262. It’s a low compression (8.6:1), strutless, hypereutectic piston with a deeper dish that was used in the turbocharged Syclones and Typhoons from ’91 through ’93. The OEM standard piston is p/n 12508702 and the Zollner number is a H-8269-E.

All of these pistons are specific to the application, so they should not be interchanged. Building an engine with pistons that have the wrong weight or compression ratio will guarantee a comeback, so it’s better to play by the book.

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Posted under 4.3L, Engines