There are several adjustments that affect window position and function. When making adjustments go in small increments or you can damage the window machinery or the door seal. The adjustments are the same for both power and hand operated windows.
Warning! If you move a door from one car to another then these adjustments MUST be checked carefully. Failure to get them right will result in wind noise, water leaks, damage to the door seal or window hardware, window breakage, or all the above.
Note: Oops, This page isn’t quite finished. I have to add the picture as soon as I get the film processed. Sorry. (Easier to leave it here now than edit links…..)
There are 2 stops that set the upper limit of travel. (You can’t adjust the bottom.) They are near the front and rear top corners of the door. Use these adjusters if the window is too far or not far enough up to seal at the top. You can adjust the front and rear stop independently but keep in mind that adjusting one may affect the other. (Blue dots in Picture 1)
There is a single wheel riding in a vertical track near the rear of the door. The track is adjusted by loosening the nuts one the top and bottom of the track.
(The bottom must be loose or the top won’t move.) This track will move the window front to rear. Adjust this track if the window edge doesn’t align with the vertical sections of the door seal. If this track is to far forward the window will bind in the front part of the door seal and damage it. (Red dots in Picture 1)
There are two pinch guides. These are on the top of the door. Adjust them with the window down. Pinch the window only tight enough to keep it in place. Over tightening these is part of why the windows get scratched by the outside pinch guides on the Dew Wipe. (Green dots in Picture 1)
The nose track should almost never need adjustment. However if you are removing the door you’ll find it much easier to remove the nose track first.
(You must move this track to get to the hinges from the interior side of the door!) This track is held to the door framing by 2 bolts. With the window up,
and the outer skin off, it will drop out the bottom of the door once the bolts are removed. Note that these 2 bolts are not the adjustment for the nose track. The adjustment is on the upper bracket inside the door. (The bolts to remove the nose track are the Yellow dots in Picture 1.)
Hardware Cleaning & Lubrication
First off, don’t spray anything on the nose or tail tracks that the glass rides in.
All you’ll do is make a hell of a mess and you could even damage the track lining. If the tracks are crudded up then tack them out and wash them. Unless the tracks are out of adjustment, rare but can happen, they are unlikely to be any problem.
For the rest of the tracks you’ll need some “white” grease and some oil. For the oil, I like Valvoline’s SynPower Penetrating Spray Lubricant or Pyroil White Lithium Grease. I’ve also used CRC 556 with good results. These products penetrate but they carry more lubricant than products like WD 40 or Liquid Wrench. WD-40 tends to evaporate and Liquid Wrench actually stiffens when cold. (Liquid Wrench can freeze. Never use it in outdoor locks.)
What is White Grease and why use it? White Grease is very light Lithium based grease. It doesn’t stink like many other types of grease do when they get warm. When you’re doing work like the window tracks you want light grease that won’t stiffen much in cold weather and White grease fits that bill very well. From past use, White grease appears less hostile to plastics than most regular grease. I usually buy it in the over sized “tooth paste tube” style package.
The big problem with window lubrication is the rollers. They are usually worn out and don’t want to roll even with lubrication. With the tracks well greased they will at least slide more easily. I think the rollers can be replaced but you’ll have to rip the entire door apart. I have no idea if or where you can get new ones. You may be able to get decent ones of another GM car. Try getting them from the passenger’s door since that usually gets less use, especially in cars w/o power windows. They look like they are just snapped onto the pivots but I’ve never had the occasion to test that theory on Fiero.
The roller pivot gets a good shot with the spray lubricant. If the rollers are in half decent shape this should wash the crud out of them. If you extend the spray straw you can then bend it around to get the hard to reach ones.
The Vertical track runs up the door behind where the armrest goes. It’s this track that does most of the work of guiding the window. The window has two wheels in that ride in it.
The Lift Track attached to the glass and it responsible for the actual up and down motion. There are two rollers running in this track, the front one will be a pain to get at.
- Lower the window and put some white grease into the track just above the rollers.
- Raise the window to the top and put some grease below the rollers.
- Run the window a couple times to spread the grease, add more as needed.
I use a screwdriver to spread the coils of the counter balance spring and then drench it with spray oil to wash out the crud. After that I blot up as much of the oil and dirt as I can then work in some white grease.
I give the pivot and crank shaft bearings a good shot of the spray oil and I put some grease on the gear teeth. I usually use something heavier to grease the gear teeth.
I find these motors rarely need internal work but in case you want to grease inside these, make sure you don’t get any lubricant on the brushes or armature. Lube on there will usually kill the motor in short order.
The gears inside the motor need regular grease. The worm gear in there generates quite allot of friction and pressure. Any good Molly or Synthetic grease works well.